Emmeline Prévôt, well known on this website for her patterns, is stitching the costume of a new member of the renowned Academy of Arts (Paris). I thought it could be interesting to follow her in this project. So here is the second article … on the jacket!
After finishing the trousers, I move on to the jacket. The tailor provided me with the suit jacket (tailor-made) disassembled into 3 pieces (the 2 fronts, and the back). First, I draw the contours of the jacket. Then I have to distribute and reposition the motif that the academician provided, adjusting it so that I can work with precision (photo 1). Everything is redrawn on a tracing paper.
The tracing paper is perforated on the design using a pouncing machine (photo 2). The perforated paper will be used to transfer the pattern on the costume. It is positioned on the fabric and rubbed with a powder which, passing through the holes, reveals the pattern (photo 3).
As there are seams remaining, the pieces cannot be laid flat for me to work. I will therefore embroider in several steps. First the chest, then the bottom of the jacket.
A canvas is then mounted on the embroidery loom to glue the costume on (photo 4).
Embroidery can begin once the glue has dried. All the leaves and olives are redrawn on pieces of card (sort of thick paper for watercolor) and are cut to be positioned on the patterns. This is what will give volume to the embroidery.
When everything is dry, I can finally start embroidering (photo 5).
I first embroider the 2 chests (photos 6 and 7) to be as symmetrical as possible in my work, then the basques (following the same steps as the chests) (photo 8).
The back slit is also redrawn on a tracing paper then stitched to be embroidered in 2 steps, each side of the slit separately (photo 9 and 10).
The costume is then given to the tailor who will reassemble it, and readjust it if necessary, before moving on to the last embroidery step.
See you soon for the end of the adventure!